How to Visit the Galapagos Islands Without a Cruise

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The Galapagos Islands are a dream destination for many people. With their wide variety of wildlife, many of which cannot be found anywhere else in the world, their unique volcanic scenery and their gorgeous white sand beaches, the islands are a very special place. There’s a reason the Galapagos are called “the Enchanted Islands”! I learned about the Galapagos Islands in Biology class in high school, but I never thought I would actually make it there someday. To me, it seemed as far away as the moon!

I always thought the Galapagos Islands could only be visited on a cruise. I started looking at cruise ships and itineraries, and found the prices really expensive, especially if I wanted my own cabin! While browsing forums and blogs, I realized that the Galapagos can easily be explored by land – without a cruise. In fact, land-based visitors in the Galapagos have surpassed cruise ship visitors. Many people choose a land-based visit to the Galapagos to avoid seasickness, save money or simply because they prefer exploring the islands at their own pace. The good thing about visiting the Galapagos without a cruise is that you can create and customize your own itinerary. You can visit the Galapagos on a budget, in luxury, or anywhere in between!

During my time in the Galapagos I saw the same animals that people who take cruises do: sea lions, marine iguanas, blue-footed boobies, land iguanas, finches, pelicans, penguins, manta rays, sea turtles, giant tortoises, white-tipped reef sharks and red-chested frigate birds.

I highly recommend visiting the Galapagos Islands without a cruise. There’s plenty to see and do on the inhabited islands of Santa Cruz, Isabela, San Cristobal and Floreana. Below is my guide to each island, with recommendations on where to eat, where to stay and descriptions of day trips. I have also provided some general tips for visiting the Galapagos by land.

 

WHEN TO VISIT THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

Peak season in the Galapagos is from mid-June till early September and from mid-December through mid-January. So if you don’t like traveling in peak season, avoid those times. September is my favourite time to go because of the cooler weather. The Annual Lobster festival also takes place in Puerto Ayora near the end of the month!

 

HOW LONG SHOULD I STAY IN THE GALAPAGOS?

I recommend staying at least a week in order to fully enjoy the Galapagos and its wildlife. If you have a week I recommend basing yourself on two islands. If you have more than a week, you can stay on all three main islands. During one of my visits to the Galapagos, it was the American Thanksgiving holiday and I met quite a few tourists who were only visiting the Galapagos for 3 or 4 days! In this case I recommend staying only on Santa Cruz or San Cristobal.

 

HOW TO GET TO THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

The only way for tourists to get to the Galapagos Islands is to fly there from mainland Ecuador – either Quito or Guayaquil. Quito is a historic city surrounded by mountains while Guayaquil is a bustling port city. There are two airlines that offer flights to/from the Galapagos: LATAM,  and Avianca. I flew LATAM to and from the Galapagos and had a positive experience.

You can fly into either Baltra or San Cristobal Airport.

Baltra: Located on a small island next to Santa Cruz island, this is the world’s first ecological airport due to its reduced energy consumption and rainwater recovery.

San Cristobal: This airport is located just a 5 minute drive or 15-20 minute walk from the town of San Cristobal.

 

AIRPORT TIPS FOR FLYING TO THE GALAPAGOS

•At the airport in Quito or Guayaquil, you will need to get a Transit Control Card. You will see signage directing you to a booth where you will show your passport to an official and tell them how long you will be staying in the Galapagos Islands. After you pay $20 in cash, they will print your information on a card and give it to you. In 2025, a website for purchasing the Transit Control Card was launched, but many people have had technical issues with it. For now, it may be better to buy the Transit Control Card in person.

• After getting your Transit Control Card, you will put your check-in and carry-on luggage through a security scanner. This is to make sure you don’t bring any forbidden food or animals to the islands. After your luggage passes the scan, a security officer will put a tag on your suitcase (usually on the zipper part where you would put a lock).

• If large cruise groups arrive at the airport at the same time as you, there will be long queues for the Transit Control Card and security. To be safe, you should arrive at the airport 3 hours in advance.

• Upon arrival at the airport in the Galapagos, you will have to show the officer your Transit Control Card and pay the $200 national park fee. Remember to bring enough cash to pay. $100 bills are accepted at the airport.

• When your luggage comes out on the conveyer belt, you can’t run over and collect it right away. You must wait for a sniffer dog to check all the bags first.

 

FERRIES IN THE GALAPAGOS

There are two main ferry routes in the Galapagos- the Santa Cruz/San Cristobal route and the Santa Cruz/Isabela route. There are ferry departures twice daily – once in the morning and once in the afternoon. From Santa Cruz ferries leave at 7:00 am and 3:00 pm to both Isabela and San Cristobal. From Isabela ferries leave at 6am and 3pm to Santa Cruz. From San Cristobal ferries leave at 7am and 3pm to Santa Cruz. When planning your trip, don’t forget that there is no San Cristobal/Isabela ferry route. There are also ferries available to Floreana but on a less frequent basis.

When you hear the word “ferry”, you might picture one of those large ferries that you drive your car onto and dine in the cafeteria and browse in the gift shop during your ride. But in the Galapagos? Nope. The ferries are nothing like that. They are actually small speedboats that hold around 20 or so passengers. Several ferries depart at the same time. Due to their small size ferry rides can be quite bumpy, so take anti-nausea pills if you suffer from seasickness. Some people prefer to sit at the back of the ferry where they can get fresh air. I sat in the covered interior part.

You can buy ferry tickets from any tour agency. They will ask for your name, contact details and passport number and tell you the boat name and what time you need to show up at the docks. Usually it is 30-60 minutes before departure. Ferries cost $30 each way.

When you get to the docks keep an eye out for people holding clipboards. They will ask for your name and check if it is on the list. Then you will receive a pass with the boat’s name to wear around your neck.

After this, your luggage will be inspected to make sure you are not bringing any introduced species like live animals or exotic fruits to other islands. On Isabela, the inspector will unzip your bags and take a look inside. On Santa Cruz, you would put your bags through a scanner like at airport security.

Next you will wait around with the other passengers on your boat until someone yells your boat’s name. Then you will take a water taxi to the ferry. These water taxis cost between 50 cents to $1. Crew members will help load luggage onto the water taxis and ferries.

When I boarded the ferry I noticed a roll of plastic bags hanging from a pole. These are barf bags in case someone gets sick.  Ferry rides tend to be rougher in the afternoon. Some people prefer to close their eyes during the ferry ride, but I find doing that makes me concentrate more on the rocking motion so I prefer to keep mine open and just watch the view.

FLYING BETWEEN ISLANDS IN THE GALAPAGOS

Emetebe Airlines operates small planes (usually with 9 seats) that transport passengers between the islands (except for Floreana). You can book at their office in Puerto Ayora (although it never seemed to be open whenever I walked by) or through a travel agent and the price is more than $150.

 

WEATHER IN THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

Unlike other destinations, there isn’t really a bad time of the year to visit the Galapagos. The weather is hotter and wetter from December to May and cooler and drier from June to November. The hottest and sunniest months are February and March.

HEALTH AND SAFETY IN THE GALAPAGOS

The crime rate in the Galapagos Islands is extremely low. It is among the safest places in South America. The greatest dangers you will face are getting sunburnt or falling on rocks.

Since the Galapagos Islands are located next to the equator, the sun is extremely strong. Bring plenty of sunblock with you, especially if you are fair-skinned like me, and remember to apply it EVERYWHERE. Don’t forget the backs of your legs especially if you are snorkeling. I did and got burnt there. Reapply your sunblock after swimming or snorkeling. I used SPF 50+ sunblock. Remember that your scalp and hair can get damaged from the sun too, so wearing a hat is a good idea! A burnt flaky scalp is unsightly and uncomfortable especially if you have dark hair! Covering up your skin is also a great way to avoid sunburn, especially when snorkeling. You can wear a wetsuit or a rashguard over your swimsuit.

When walking on some islands during day trips or getting into the water for snorkeling, be very careful as sometimes there are sharp rocks. Don’t walk barefoot or use flip-flops to walk on the rocks. Water shoes will protect your feet during wet landings.

 

DRINKING WATER IN THE GALAPAGOS

Tap water in the Galapagos is not drinkable. To play it safe, do not even brush your teeth with it. Most hotels have water tanks that you can fill up your water bottle with. Bottled water is also available in many stores. If you want to be more environmentally friendly consider bringing your own water bottle.

 

SNORKELING IN THE GALAPAGOS

Most day trips in the Galapagos include snorkeling time. The snorkeling skill level among the people on your day trip will vary. Don’t worry if you cannot swim or are not a good swimmer. On quite a few of the day trips snorkeling is done from the beach rather than in deep water. You can ask for a life jacket to wear and just float on the water. If you tell your tour guide in advance they can also get into the water with you and help you.

On one of my day trips there were several people who couldn’t swim and they still went snorkeling and enjoyed themselves. However, it would be better if you practice floating and swimming in your local pool with a snorkel mask on before you go to the Galapagos.

A lot of people wear a shorty or long wetsuit to protect themselves from the sun and to keep warm. Some tour agencies include wetsuits in the price or you can rent them for an extra fee. Most tour agencies provide snorkel equipment (mask, fins).

 

SCUBA DIVING IN THE GALAPAGOS

The Galapagos is one of the best places in the world to scuba dive. In some spots you can see huge schools of hammerhead sharks. However, diving in the Galapagos is not for beginners as the currents can be very strong and visibility poor. There are some agencies that will take you on scuba diving day trip even if you are a complete novice but they don’t really specialize in lessons for beginners. You are better off learning to dive somewhere with easier water conditions and good training facilities for beginners like the Caribbean.

Advanced divers usually take liveaboard dive tours which take them to the faraway islands of Wolf and Darwin which are only accessible to divers. Scuba diving day trips are also possible though. You usually need at least 20-30 dives to do these day trips. The most famous scuba diving day tour from Santa Cruz is Gordon Rocks and from San Cristobal, Kicker Rock.

LANGUAGE IN THE GALAPAGOS

The native language of Galapagueños is Spanish but most people working for tour agencies like guides and travel agents can speak English. However, you will still meet many locals who speak little or no English like boat crew members, taxi drivers and restaurant staff. In my opinion it’s worth learning some basic conversational Spanish before your trip as being able to talk to these locals will make your experience in the Galapagos much more positive and memorable!

 

WIFI AND CELL PHONE COVERAGE IN THE GALAPAGOS

Until the arrival of Starlink a few years ago, wifi in the Galapagos was very slow. However, as of 2025, it has significantly improved. Santa Cruz has the best Internet, with San Cristobal coming in second and Isabela and Floreana coming in last.

There are two main cell companies that operate in the Galapagos: Movistar and Claro. You can buy an Ecuadorian SIM card on the mainland or in the Galapagos. Claro has a reputation for being more reliable than Movistar.

 

MONEY IN THE GALAPAGOS

The Galapagos Islands is still primarily a cash-based society. Major hotels and some tour operators do accept credit cards, but some shops and restaurants don’t. If you book your day trips online you can pay with credit card or PayPal but if you book in person they usually prefer cash. You may face additional fees if you pay for tours by credit card too.

ATMS are available on Santa Cruz and San Cristobal but not on Floreana. There is one on Isabela but it is often out of order. If you are going to Isabela or Floreana make sure you have enough cash to cover your entire stay. It would be terrible to miss out on a tour or go hungry because you don’t have enough cash! Even before you arrive in the Galapagos, have some cash ready to cover the $200 national park entrance fee. Like the rest of Ecuador, the currency in the Galapagos Islands is the US Dollar.

In the Galapagos (as well as the rest of Ecuador), US $1 coins are frequently exchanged. This may be surprising to Americans who rarely or never use $1 coins at home. You can still use $1 bills though. As it can sometimes be difficult to get change especially on Isabela and Floreana, bring some smaller bills and coins with you. You will need change to pay for water taxis and snacks.

WHAT TO PACK FOR THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

Click here for my recommended packing list for the Galapagos Islands!

 

SANTA CRUZ ISLAND

Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island is the main hub for the tourism in the Galapagos. It is a great place to base yourself as you take day trips to other islands. You can also spend a few days exploring the island, visiting a tortoise ranch, the Charles Darwin Research Station, the beach at Tortuga Bay or enjoying fresh seafood. READ MY GUIDE TO VISITING SANTA CRUZ ISLAND HERE.

ISABELA ISLAND

Isabela Island is shaped like a seahorse and and offers a laid-back, “end of the world” vibe that stands in stark contrast to the busier hub of Santa Cruz. In the charming town of Puerto Villamil, sandy streets lead directly to palm-fringed beaches where marine iguanas bask in the sun and sea lions nap on park benches. Whether you trek the massive caldera of the Sierra Negra Volcano, snorkel through the otherworldly lava arches of Los Tuneles or spot the rare Galapagos penguin at Las Tintoreras, Isabela will leave you with incredible memories. READ MY GUIDE TO VISITING ISABELA ISLAND HERE.

 

 

SAN CRISTOBAL ISLAND

San Cristobal Island has a huge population of sea lions and you can see them from the waterfront boardwalk in town, making it a sea lion lover’s paradise. It is a great base for budget travelers due to the abundance of free or cheap activities, including snorkeling. From San Cristobal Island you can catch two of the best day trips in the Galapagos: Kicker Rock and Española. READ MY IN-DEPTH GUIDE TO WHAT TO DO ON SAN CRISTOBAL ISLAND HERE.

 

FLOREANA ISLAND

Floreana has the smallest population of the four inhabited islands but the most fascinating history. It used to be a hideout for pirates and in the 20th century there was a scandal involving possible murders and mysterious disappearances. Its post office barrel, the first mailbox in the Galapagos, is world famous. You can take a day trip here from Santa Cruz and visit Floreana’s highlands, snorkel at Black Beach or La Loberia, and drop off a postcard at the replica of the post office barrel. Or if you are craving peace and isolation, you can stay overnight on Floreana. Due to the lack of lights on the island stargazing there is amazing.

Read more about Floreana in my detailed guide about where to stay, where to eat, and what to do on the island.

I hope you found my guide helpful! Which islands would you like to visit most? Tell me in the comments below!