Kyushu is one of Japan’s most underrated regions. Japan’s southern island offers an incredible mix of historic port cities, active volcanoes, hot spring towns, scenic train rides, coastal ferries and amazing food. Kyushu has fewer crowds than Japan’s main tourist route of Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka, offering visitors a more relaxing travel experience.
After visiting Kyushu twice, I’ve put together what I think is the ideal first-time route: a 10-day itinerary that combines history, scenery, onsen culture, and city exploration without feeling overly rushed.
This itinerary starts in Nagasaki and ends in Fukuoka, with stops in Shimabara, Kumamoto, Beppu, Yufuin and Karatsu along the way.
Quick Overview of this Kyushu Route
- Days 1-3: Nagasaki
- Day 4: Shimabara Castle & ferry to Kumamoto
- Day 5: Kumamoto to Beppu
- Day 6: Explore Beppu’s famous hot springs
- Day 7: Yufuin & ride the Yufuin no Mori to Fukuoka
- Day 8: Day Trip to Karatsu
- Day 9: Explore Fukuoka
- Day 10: Departure from Fukuoka
Getting Around Kyushu with the JR Kyushu Rail Pass
If you are not renting a car, purchasing a JR Kyushu Rail Pass before your trip will help your trip flow smoothly. Highly convenient and cost-effective, it covers unlimited travel on the island’s modern Shinkansen bullet trains and unique regional express lines.
It can be easily purchased directly on the official JR Kyushu website, which grants you access to their advance online reservation system even before you set foot in Japan. This is particularly crucial for securing seats on the Yufuin no Mori, Kyushu’s legendary, forest-green sightseeing train. Because this train is an all-reserved service and immensely popular with travelers, seats sell out almost instantly. While reserving your seats online in advance incurs a small extra surcharge (usually 1,000 to 1,500 yen per seat), it is well worth the peace of mind to guarantee your spot on this breathtaking, panoramic route. Remember to bring the exact credit card you purchased the pass online with when you pick up your pass at the station – this is a requirement.
For this itinerary, I recommend getting the 5 day Northern Kyushu Railway pass:
The 5-Day Pass (Days 4 to 8) — Recommended
- Day 4: Nagasaki → Isahaya (Covered)
- Day 5: Kumamoto → Oita/Beppu via Red Kyushu Odan Tokkyu (Covered)
- Day 6: Beppu local travel (Covered)
- Day 7: Beppu → Yufuin → Hakata via Yufuin no Mori (Covered)
- Day 8: Hakata ↔ Karatsu Castle Round Trip (Partially Covered)
- Total Cost: ¥16,000
If you are planning to extend your trip by a couple of days, perhaps to explore Kagoshima or southern Kyushu, you might want to consider the 7 Day All Kyushu Pass.
Day 1: Arrival in Nagasaki
I highly recommend spending at least three nights in Nagasaki. Many travellers only stop for a day, but the city has a completely different atmosphere from most of Japan and deserves more time.
With its long history as one of Japan’s only international trading ports during the Edo period, Nagasaki has a fascinating blend of Japanese, Chinese, and European influences.
If you are arriving at Nagasaki Airport, the best way to reach the city is by bus.
Where to Stay in Nagasaki: Nagasaki Marriott Hotel
Brand new and modern, the Nagasaki Marriott Hotel is located a short walk from Nagasaki Station entrance. All guest rooms have balconies and offer views of Mount Inasa, the city or the harbour. The staff are very helpful and welcoming, and the views from the lobby and breakfast restaurant are stunning.
Day 2: Exploring Nagasaki
Begin your first full day in Nagasaki at the Atomic Bomb Museum and Peace Park to reflect on and learn about the events of August 9, 1945.
From there, take a tram or a taxi to Oura Church, Japan’s oldest standing Christian church. For 1000 yen, you can visit the interior of the church and a museum. Then wander up the hillside to Glover Garden to explore the elegant, Western-style 19th-century mansions and admire the harbour views.
Stroll down to Shinchi Chinatown (Japan’s oldest Chinatown) and indulge in a bowl of Champon, Nagasaki’s signature noodle dish packed with seafood, pork, and vegetables.
From Chinatown, walk over to Nagasaki Seaside Park and enjoy a scenic stroll along the waterfront. There are often cruise ships in port. You may also want to check out Dejima, an artificial island used centuries ago as a trading post by the Portuguese and the Dutch. Before sunset, take a taxi or the ropeway up Mount Inasa. The ropeway costs 1900 yen for a round trip.
I took a taxi up Mount Inasa and they waited for me while I watched the sunset and enjoyed the night view. Expect to pay 4000- 5000 yen for a round trip from the Nagasaki Station area. It is ranked as one of the best night views in the world, and the sparkling harbour is breathtaking.
Day 3: Nagasaki
On your second full day in the Nagasaki area, stay in the city exploring more or venture slightly away to the Nagasaki Penguin Aquarium. Alternatively, if you want to experience a charming European-style theme park, go to Huis ten Bosch.
The Nagasaki Penguin Aquarium
The Nagasaki Penguin Aquarium (9:00-17:00) is a perfect half-day activity, especially on a rainy day (like when I visited) so you can still spend the rest of the day exploring Nagasaki’s hills. It houses the largest variety of penguin species in the world (9 of 18 species). It’s only about a 30 minute bus ride from Nagasaki Station and admission is very affordable at 800 yen for adults.
I took a taxi to the aquarium from Nagasaki Station but took the bus back. If you want a seat, note the bus schedule and arrive at the bus stop early, as quite a few people were waiting for the bus when I was there – not only aquarium visitors, but also local students!
Huis Ten Bosch
If you’re in the mood for something surreal, Huis Ten Bosch is a massive theme park that perfectly recreates a Dutch town. It is Japan’s largest theme park by area and is more about the atmosphere – canals, windmills and tulips rather than rides. One of the highlights is the night illuminations. Huis Ten Bosch is a 90 minute journey on the JR Seaside Liner train from Nagasaki Station, so a visit here would be a full day trip! I didn’t have time to visit on my first visit to Nagasaki, but I definitely want to go next time.
Day 4: Shimabara & the Ferry to Kumamoto
From Nagasaki Station, ride a Nagasaki Line train to Isahaya Station (26 minutes). Or if you have a JR Kyushu Rail Pass, catch the faster, more expensive Nishi Kyushu Shinkansen (covered with your pass) and reach Isahaya Station in just 8 minutes!
Shimabara Railway from Isahaya to Shimabara
To reach Shimabara, you’ll need to ride the Shimabara Railway. This charming, local private line is famous for its bright yellow train cars that stand out against the green hills and blue ocean. However, IC cards are not accepted for payment, and the railway is not covered by any JR Kyushu rail pass. You will need to buy a paper ticket at the machine at Isahaya Station.
I highly recommend buying your ticket well before the next train departs. I bought mine shortly after I arrived at Isahaya Station, then went back upstairs to have a drink in Starbucks for a while. I was really glad I did, because by the time I returned to the Shimabara Railway station at Isahaya, the only ticket machine had broken down, there was a long line of people, the stationmaster was on the phone (probably calling for someone to fix the machine) and the train was about to depart in a few minutes!
The journey from Isahaya to Shimabara Station takes about 70 minutes. Once you arrive, it is about a 10 minute walk to Shimabara Castle.
The white-walled Shimabara Castle is a beautiful sight with a heavy history. In the early 1600s, the local population, many of whom were hidden Christians (Kakure Kirishitan) who practiced their faith in secret rose up against heavy taxation and religious persecution in the Shimabara Rebellion.
Today, the castle tower houses a museum with several exhibits dedicated to these Christian martyrs, displaying hidden crucifixes and artifacts from the siege. It’s a side of Japanese history that many travellers never see.
Once you’ve explored Shimabara Castle, take a short walk to Koi-no-Mizube Road. Here, the city’s exceptionally pure volcanic spring water flows through narrow roadside canals, where many large koi fish leisurely swim past traditional samurai residences.
Ocean Arrow Ferry between Shimabara and Kumamoto
After you’ve explored Shimabara, catch a bus or a taxi to the ferry pier (I took a taxi to save time). You can buy ferry tickets inside the terminal. My ticket for the high-speed ferry Ocean Arrow cost 1500 yen.
Inside the ferry there is a gift shop selling souvenirs, including Kumamon items. On the upper level there are cozier seats. You can also go out on the deck. I saw a lot of children feeding the seagulls that were flying alongside the boat.
After a short 30 minute journey you will arrive at Kumamotominato Ferry Terminal. There is a bus stop outside the terminal, and busses leave shortly after each ferry arrives. There is a taxi stand, and I waited a while for one, but I saw absolutely no taxis. I had some heavy luggage with me, so I had been hoping to catch a taxi directly to my hotel, but the prices quoted on the Uber and GO Taxi apps were extremely high, so I decided to take the next bus instead.
The bus from the ferry terminal to Kumamoto Station takes 30 minutes, and 35 minutes to Sakura Machi Shopping Centre (closer to Kumamoto Hotel Castle).
If you are fan of Kumamoto’s cute bear mascot Kumamon, you should stop by Kumamon Village, a massive souvenir shop selling all kinds of Kumamon souvenirs.
Where to Stay in Kumamoto: Kumamoto Hotel Castle
Opened in 1960, Kumamoto Hotel Castle is less than a 10 minute walk from Kumamoto Castle, with some of its rooms offering a view of the castle. I enjoyed lounging by the window in my room, taking in the view of the castle while sipping on the complimentary TWG Tea.
Day 5: Kumamoto Castle & Travel to Beppu
If you didn’t visit it the previous afternoon, start your morning at Kumamoto Castle (9:00-17:00), one of Japan’s most impressive castles. Although it was damaged during the 2016 earthquakes, reconstruction work has made most of the castle accessible again.
Kumamon, a red-cheeked bear is the official mascot of Kumamoto. If you love cute mascots, visit Kumamon Square, where you can buy Kumamon themed souvenirs and sweets, visit his official office, and even watch him dance on stage.
According to the official website, as of September 2025, Kumamon’s show times are:
Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday: 14:00-14:30
Saturday: 11:30-12:00, 16:30-17:00
Sunday & Public Holidays: 11:30-12:00, 14:00-14:30
If you want a spot close to the stage, arrive 30-45 minutes in advance. Admission is free. I arrived at Kumamon Square a few minutes after the show had already started and through the glass windows I could see Kumamon dancing as I approached. An employee eagerly ushered me in to a spot near the back, where I watched Kumamon’s performance.
Before you visit Kumamon Square, check Kumamon’s official calendar to make sure he will be performing that day.
Riding the Kyushu Odan Tokkyu between Kumamoto and Oita/Beppu
The Kyushu Odan Tokkyu train departs Kumamoto Station three times daily at 8:25, 11:49 and 15:23. It arrives at Oita Station at 11:49, 15:08 and 18:34. The train terminates for the day at Beppu Station at 18:45, so if you want a train that conveniently takes you straight to Beppu Station, choose the 15:23 departure time from Kumamoto Station. If your Kyushu Odan Tokkyu terminates at Oita, simply transfer to another train for the 10 minute journey to Beppu.
Kyushu Odan Tokkyu has one reserved car and one non-reserved car. I booked my seat 30 days in advance online because I was afraid it would sell out, but surprisingly there were quite a few empty seats in the reserved car during my ride. This might be because Kyushu Odan Tokkyu is not as famous as the Yufuin no Mori and Ash Boy! specialty trains, despite offering excellent views of Aso volcano and the countryside during the more than 3 hour long journey.
Where to Stay in Beppu: Sekiya Resort Galleria Midobaru
I’ve stayed in a lot of hotels, but I’ve never stayed in one that feels like an art gallery! Perched high in the hills overlooking Beppu, Sekiya Resort Galleria Midobaru isn’t just a hotel – it’s a brutalist architectural masterpiece.
Every room features a private semi-open air onsen. You can soak in Beppu’s famous therapeutic waters while looking out over the steam rising from the city.
Dining: The Peak, Sekiya Resort Galleria Midobaru’s restaurant, focuses on food cooked in the high-temperature volcanic steam or grilled over local oak.
Day 6: Explore Beppu & the Famous “Hells”
Beppu is known for its dramatic geothermal landscape, with steam rising from streets, drains, and rooftops throughout the city. It has around 3000 hot springs- second only to Yellowstone in the United States.
The main attraction is the collection of 7 geothermal pools known as the Beppu Hells. These are for viewing rather than bathing, and each one has a different appearance, from bright cobalt blue pools to bubbling mud pits and even a geyser. You can visit all seven or just choose the ones that interest you the most. If you decide to visit all seven, I recommend buying a discounted pass. Visiting them all will likely take you 3-4 hours.
At the hells and on the streets of Beppu, you will see vendors selling food like corn on the cob, eggs, chicken, vegetables and seafood that have been steamed in the hells. Or at a sit down restaurant like the famous Jigoku Mushi Kobo Kannawa, you can buy a tray of meat, vegetables and seafood and try steaming them yourself!
If you are a castle lover, you may want to visit Kifune Castle, which overlooks Beppu and offers excellent views. Or if you want to get photos of dozens of plumes of steam rising above the roofs of bathhouses and hotels, visit Yukemuri Observation Deck. Alternatively, after several busy travel days, you might prefer relaxing in an onsen.
Interested in onsen towns? Read about Noboribetsu Onsen here.
Day 7: Explore Yufuin & Travel to Fukuoka on the Yufuin no Mori Train
Travel from Beppu by train or bus to the picturesque town of Yufuin, known for its cafes, boutiques, mountain scenery, and relaxed atmosphere. While Beppu is a place for soaking, Yufuin is a place for wandering. Consider visiting these attractions during your time in Yufuin:
Yufuin Floral Village: A Cotswolds Fairytale
Modeled after the Cotswolds in England, this “village” is a labyrinth of stone cottages covered in flowers. Here you will find mostly themed shops selling Ghibli, Moomin and Peter Rabbit products.
Yufuin Showakan (Showa Museum)
A “time-slip” experience. Yufuin Showa Museum recreates a Japanese street from the Showa era, with a school classroom, a doctor’s office, a candy shop, an arcade, a hair salon, a cinema, and many more! It’s an immersive experience and perfect for photos that feel like a movie set.
Yufuin Retro Motor Museum
For car enthusiasts or even people with a casual interest in cars, this private collection of retro cars is a must-see. I came here on a rainy day and even though the Floral Village and main streets of Yufuin were busy with tourists, the Retro Motor Museum was quiet inside with few visitors. It houses around 70 vintage vehicles, including rare Japanese models from the 60s boom, classic Porsches and even a small plane. There is a gift shop where you can buy model cars.
Snoopy Chocolat
If you are a Snoopy fan or chocolate lover, stop here for Snoopy-themed gifts and chocolate. I love the matcha chocolate here!
Yufuin no Mori
After exploring for a few hours, board the iconic Yufuin no Mori. This beautifully designed train is one of Kyushu (and Japan’s) most famous rail experiences, with large windows and scenic countryside views on the way to Fukuoka.
All seats aboard the Yufuin no Mori are reserved. If you are set on riding it, I highly recommend buying a JR Kyushu Rail Pass and reserving your seats online as soon as booking opens 30 days before departure. It is very popular and sells out fast! You can also pre-order a bento meal online. Even if you have a rail pass, you still have to pay a 1000 yen fee per seat for booking online but it is well worth it to secure your spot.
Once onboard the train, you can explore it. Be careful when walking through the cars as I found it very shaky and wobbly compared to other trains like the Shinkansen! In the lounge car, you can pose with a commemorative sign showing the day’s date. The train attendants were friendly and offered to help with photos. At the end of the train is the bar counter where desserts and drinks are for sale (although some may be sold out near the end of the day). You can also buy souvenirs like towels and pins.
Sit on the left side of the train from Yufuin to Hakata to get good photos of Jionnotaki Falls. There will be an announcement shortly before the train passes the falls.
Where to Stay in Fukuoka: TOKYU STAY Fukuoka-Tenjin
The biggest perk of staying at a TOKYU STAY hotel is the in-room washer/dryer combo. Here you can catch up on your laundry! There is a Lawson convenience store steps from the entrance, as well as a 7-Eleven (where my umbrella got stolen from the umbrella rack outside!)
You will be a 5 minute walk from the Nakasu riverfront food stalls (yatai) and a 10 minute walk from Canal City.
Day 8: Day Trip to Karatsu
From Fukuoka, take a relaxing day trip to Karatsu in nearby Saga Prefecture. Like Fukui, Saga is one of Japan’s least visited prefectures. The main attraction in Karatsu is Karatsu Castle, also known as “Dancing Crane Castle” which overlooks the sea and offers beautiful coastal views. Karatsu makes a great slower-paced contrast to the larger cities on this itinerary.
Board the JR Chikuhi Line (I boarded it from Tenjin Station) and as the train leaves the city behind, the dramatic coastline of the Genkai Sea will come into view. You will see mesmerizing views of crashing waves.
In addition to its rich samurai history, Karatsu Castle was also the inspiration for the fictional Hasetsu Castle in the hit 2016 anime series Yuri!!! on Ice. While you wander the castle grounds, you can easily picture the protagonist, Yuri Katsuki, on his grueling training runs. The castle grounds and observation deck offer breathtaking views of the sea that make you feel like you’ve stepped right into the show’s beautifully animated world.
Day 9: Explore Fukuoka
Start your morning in Fukuoka with a peaceful stroll around Ohori Park, checking out the ruins of Fukuoka Castle before exploring the sprawling Canal City Hakata shopping centre, a “city within a city” famous for its whimsical architecture, hourly fountain shows, and Ramen Stadium – a food court featuring many different kinds of ramen stalls. I even ate tomato-flavoured ramen there once!
In the afternoon, head toward the coast to visit Fukuoka Tower and enjoy a 360-degree panoramic view of Hakata Bay and the city skyline. In the evening, make your way to the waterfront districts of Nakasu or Tenjin to experience the city’s atmospheric yatai stalls. These famous outdoor food carts are popular with locals and offer counter seating so you can sit outside as you enjoy authentic Hakata tonkotsu ramen, sizzling yakitori skewers, and more.
Day 10: Departure from Fukuoka
Enjoy one last bowl of Hakata Ramen or do some last-minute souvenir shopping at Hakata Station before heading to the airport or continuing your travels in Japan.
Final Thoughts
This route combines many of Kyushu’s highlights without feeling overwhelmingly rushed. It blends major cities, historic towns, scenic transportation, hot spring culture, and coastal landscapes into one memorable trip.
If you have even more time, I’d recommend adding another night in Beppu or a few extra days around Kagoshima and southern Kyushu. But for a first trip to the region, I think this 10-day itinerary offers a great balance between variety and pacing.
